Site Last Updated 06/12/2016
© Toolmanweb 2003-2016
picture shows the interior of the car when it arrived. It seems mostly
complete and in fairly good condition. However the dash is damaged (see the
large silver washers) and the drivers seat has a tear. The door card on the
passenger side has also rotted badly.
- 13 February 2004
- As part of the rear suspension rebuild I
had to remove the rear carpet, plastic trim and metal access plates.
Following the completion of this and sorting out the rear lights etc I
gave the whole rear of the car a good vacuum out. I straightened the metal
plates and gave them the usual coat of hammerite. I refitted them with
stainless screws. I cleaned the trim with armourall and refitted that with
more stainless screws. The carpets and under felt are actually in quite
good condition so I just refitted them as they were.
23 February 2003
- Removed the trim panel from the drivers
door to fix the electric window mechanism (see Electrics). The hardboard
is split in several places so I plan to use it as a template and make a
new one. Hopefully the vinyl trim can be glued on with some contact
adhesive. The polythene waterproofing material behind the panel was
missing so I need to replace this. Removed the door handle as the lock was
seized. I stripped it down and spent some time freeing off the mechanism.
This now works ok but I need to obtain a new star locking washer to
rebuild it - the old one was so corroded it snapped when I removed it.
- Cut out the new hardboard trim panel for
the drivers side using the old one as a template. It looks as though this
has been done before as the vinyl was not stuck to it in the middle. The
old trim split a bit when I removed it from the panel so I need to make
the new one slightly smaller to be able to glue it around the edge. All of
the clips were either bent or broken so I have ordered new ones from
vehicle Wiring Products.
- Finished rebuilding the door handle and
lock mechanism. Gave the whole thing a good greasing and oiled the barrel
with lots of 3in1 oil. Refitted it to the door and it now works a treat.
- Removed the door panel from the
passenger side. This has virtually disintegrated and is in a very poor
state. I am unable to use this as a template for a new panel so I will
make a mirror image copy of the drivers side and adjust it to fit.
- 06 March 2004
- Fitted the new fixing clips and glued
the vinyl back on the door card (with spray contact adhesive). Made a new
plastic rain guard for the door using some thick blue builders damp
proofing plastic and glued it in with the contact adhesive. TIP: wear
gloves when using the glue as it gets everywhere. Fitted the door guard in
place and then the clips round the door opener - they slide in from the
top and bottom. Refitted the door armrest / handle with new screws.
- 22 March 2004
- Cleaned down the interior of the
passenger door and tried to adjust the hinges as the door catches slightly
when it closes. They are rusted solid so I will have to try fitting some
plates to the back of the mountings to the body. Refitted the door handle
and the speaker with new stainless steel screws. Lubricated the runners
for the electric window with some silicon spray. Removed the seatbelt from
the drivers side and fitted a new one from Graham Walkers. The tricky bit
is bolting the stalk to the transmission tunnel. To do this on your own
you need arms about 10 feet long it is definitely a 2 person job. I will
get my daughter to hold the spanner for me whilst I crawl under the car.
- 22 April 2004
- Eventually managed to fit the nut on the
drivers side seatbelt stalk with the help of my father in law Brian.
Removing the old belt from the passenger side proved a little difficult as
the main mounting bolt had seized in the captive nut in the chassis. I had
to resort to a previously learned lesson and weld an old wheel stud to the
top of the bolt. I was then able to undo it. The bolt securing the stalk
to the transmission tunnel was also rusted in but I was able to grind the
head off this to remove it. The belt was then refitted (me under the car
and Brian inside it) with new nuts and bolts supplied with the kit.
- 15 May 2004
- Took a good look at the rear seatbelts
in the car and decided to replace them as they were rusty and frayed.
Obtained original Reliant replacements from Nigel at Queensbury Road
Garage still in the original bags. Removing the parts bolted to the
transmission tunnel was no problem due to the coating of oil on the
underside of the car from a leaky diff. However the outside ones are in
the wheel arches and had consequently become well rusted. The passenger
side came undone eventually with much use of a breaker bar and loads of
WD40 but the drivers side would not budge. The captive nuts that hold
the belt in place are welded to a small strap that bolts onto the rear
of the chassis and I had to grind off the nut to remove it. The new belt
was fitted back to the car using the new bolts that came with the kit
and with a new self locking nut. I had to cut a couple of inches from
the strap and weld in new metal. The new nut was not welded to the strap
to make future removal easier.
- 16 May 2004
- Decided to clean the interior of the car
and see how well it would come up. Used some Decasol foam cleaner on the
seats and other parts of the vinyl interior. They have come up quite
well and the whole interior smells a lot better. Made and fitted the plastic water deflector to the drivers door and
glued the wrinkled vinyl down just under the window with some spray
- 23 May 2004
- Made a new door card for the passenger
door from hardboard and glued the old vinyl trim to it. There are a few
splits at the bottom of the vinyl but this looks 100% better than it did
before as the previous card had rotted away.
- 01 August 2004
- Driving the car has revealed a couple of
annoying squeaks inside the car. The first was traced to the clutch
pedal pivot point. The second was the drivers seat tilting mechanism.
Both were cured with the trusty can of spray grease. I think that this
is meant for chains on motorbikes but it is excellent for general pivot
- I started work on the cars dashboard.
Most of the dials have rusty bezels and the switches are all a bit grubby.
As I needed to remove the steering wheel and indicator unit to replace the
steering column upper bush I took the opportunity to do some fettling.
Firstly I removed the dash panel together with all of the dials and
switches from the car. I carefully marked all of the wires I removed with
a Dymo labelling machine so I would know where to replace them.
- This left the car looking like spaghetti
junction but was essential for re assembly.
- Then I stripped all of the items from
the dash panel. I had intended to replace this with a fibreglass item I
got from another Scimitar owner as mine was split in several places.
- However following a discussion at the
Chesterfield noggin with Alan Bower I decided to have a go at 'welding' it
back together with my soldering iron. I started with the little cracks
first to get used to it (I am an experienced soldering iron user) and then
move on to the major ones. The secret seems to be to get both sides of the
crack to melt and then move the iron in a circular motion to knit them
together. I used a 25watt iron with a small tip so as not to burn through
the plastic all together. The results seem to be OK but I will tell how
strong it is when I come to refit it to the car.
- I removed all of the front bezels from
the dials and re sprayed them with a silk finish black in cans from the
local motor spares shop. I am quite pleased with the finish.
- 27 Feb 2005
- Refitted all of the dials to the dash
and wired everything back up. Painted and fitted the mounting screws and
the dash. This looks much better. However a small amount of cracking re
occurred round the warning light area. I am considering reinforcing this
with a piece of matte black painted aluminium. Had to make a new mounting
bracket for the bonnet release as it was bending when I tried to use it.
Turned out that the old one was nearly rusted through.
- To get at this I had to remove the
blower motor assembly in the drivers foot well. I was not that surprised
to find a mouse nest nestling in the space beneath. I guess that's where
all of the chewed bits of my interior ended up.
- 01 Sept 2005
- Managed to win some XJS leather seats on
Ebay to replace my own worn ones. These have a similar pattern but are
high back. I will detail fitting them when I pick them up from Birmingham.
- 10 Oct 2005
- Started work on removing the old seats. I was surprised
that most of the bolts came undone without to much trouble with just one
or two snapping with a little brute force applied. The runners for the new
seats are in a totally different place than the Reliant items so I had a
decision to make. Do I make up new runner mountings for the Jag seats or
do I drill new holes in the floor. Taking the path of least resistance I
opted for the latter. I placed the new seat in the car (not easy when you
only have 2 foot to open the door into) and with a bit of fiddling got it
into what was a comfortable position for me (allowing for a little
adjustment with the seat mechanism). It was then I noticed that the rear
mounting holes for the runner were actually in mid air! They were
overhanging the raised seat section of the bodywork by around 5 inches. I
toyed with lots of possible solutions to this problem involving pipe
spacers and long bolts or metal angle brackets. In the end I devised a
simpler solution. based on the length of the runner I estimated that there
was around 20% of it overhanging. Given the type of runner used (one where
the bearing surfaces continue along its full length) I decided that this
was acceptable and simply drilled a new mounting hole through the runner
as far up as I could get it towards the seat back (with the mechanism
fully forward). I then offered up the seat again and this time the
mounting holes were in line with the ones used by Reliant if not in the
same place. I should state at this stage that Reliant bonded plates into
the floor of the car for fixing the seat. Obviously as the spacing of the
Jag seats runners is different I had to come up with a way of replicating
this for the new seats. After much head scratching and chatting to other
car nuts I decided to use spreader plates under the floor but also bolt
those plates to the existing mountings. I made them up in 1.5mm steel and
gave them the usual coat of hammerite before fixing with new bolts and
nyloc nuts. I am pleased with the results. They are much more comfortable
that the originals but due to the seat pattern don't look out of place. I
now need to get a leather dye kit to sort out the colour.
- 07 Jan 2006
- Cleaned up and sprayed the ashtrays. They have come up
- Sometime after Jan 2006
- Whilst working on the engine bay I had
to remove the brake and clutch master cylinders so I took the opportunity
to also remove the pedal box. This was stripped and repainted but had a
broken spring on the clutch pedal. Fortunately I was able to unwind a coil
on the spring and refit it so I did not need to replace it.
- When re assembling I fitted a new clutch
master cylinder as the original leaked and a new throttle cable. I also
fitted a new slave cylinder as that also leaked.
- Removed the heater box from the car
and completely stripped it down. Cleaned out the matrix which seemed to
flow water Ok and also removed the leaking water valve. As per Don
Kennedys site I have blanked this off with a 2p piece which required the
edge removing with a grinder before it was soldered into place. I have
repainted and rebuilt the unit with new seals.
- Also repainted some of the mounting
hardware at the same time. Then re assembled it all into the car
- Made a decision to start fitting the
underlay and carpet set. I have brought some self adhesive closed cell
foam for the underlay but I have to say that this is a nightmare to fit.
- I have also started to lay out the
carpet set so that it will hopefully find the correct shape and go in
- Carpet set complete
- Started work on the dashboard. I
brought a second hand fibreglass replacement quite a few years ago and
after a lot of repair work , glassing and filling, I sprayed it in some
brown satin paint i had mixed. The colour match is not perfect but it
looks quite good and is much better than the original which is cracked
- When I came to fit it to the rest of
the dash assembly it went OK accept that the ignition switch would not
line up correctly. It wasn't miles out but needed some fettling. I had
to slacken off the mounting bolts and move the column about 10mm to the
right. Also had to rotate the switch assembly anti clockwise. This was
achieved by filing parts the steering lock mechanism. Once done I tested
that it all works as it should and it looks great in my opinion.
- Re fitted the rear interior trim but
before that I had to fit the door lock striker plates. I Brought these
some time ago as good used replacements as mine were very rusty.
Unfortunately I seem to have 1 screw missing though I hope it will turn
up as I start to fit all the other bits back to the car.
- I brought a roll of material off the
internet some time ago for the headlining. It's a beige colour nylon
type with a foam back. Using the old mouldy and rotten one as a pattern
I carefully measured and cut the material to size. My mother in law lent
me her sewing machine and I had a go at making the new one. Having never
used one before I looked at a few clips on you tube and found out how to
set it all up. I then sewed the loops onto the back side of the material
in the correct position. The aluminium rods that hold it in place were
quite corroded so I cleaned them up with a wire brush and emery paper. I
gave them a good coat of silicone polish to make them slide easily and
threaded them into the loops. Around the roll bar in the car there are
aluminium strips that trap the material and are riveted in place. I
fixed the material to them first with some spray contact adhesive. The
rods are secured at each end with a self tapping screw. Once these were
in place the material is stretched from the middle of the windscreen
aperture outwards. I used bulldog clips to hold it until I was happy
with how it looked. I then fixed it all around the edge with more spray
glue. The rear headlining behind the roll hoop was done in a similar
way. Right at the rear I removed the existing vinyl trim and replaced it
with more of the headlining material. I am very pleased with the
- July 2016
- Fitted the refurbished front seats to
the car. Had to fit a lot of spacer washers under the runners too stop
them fouling on the carpet. I am very pleased with how they fit. They
match the rear seats very well and look stock.