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© Toolmanweb 2003-2016
Jacked up the back of the car and rested it on axle stands. Removed the
wheels and the drum on the drivers side. The brakes on this car gave
obviously had some work done in the past as the shoes are in good
condition and the cylinder looks new. The brake pipes are also in good
condition and the handbrake lever works ok. Tried rotating the hubs and
there seems to be a lot of play before the prop shaft starts to rotate. It
feels like the half shaft is loose on the splines - if that's possible? The
rear of the chassis has lots of surface rust but I have not found any
holes yet. The car is fitted with a tow bar and I think that my next job
should be to remove this and start cleaning everything down ready for
painting. One thing I noticed is that at sometime in the past the brake
shoes must have worn down to the rivets as there is a groove in the
surface of the drum about 1mm deep. If you look at the brake shoes in the
pictures section you can see that part of the lining material is hardly
touched and this patch lines up exactly with the rivets. I think that the
groove is too deep to be machined out as the manual states that the
maximum amount that can be removed is 20thou. Looks like I will be on the
look out for some new drums then!.
Removed the brake shoes, and handbrake cable at the lever end. Unbolted
the spring/shock assembly and the two large trailing arms on the drivers
side. There is a lot of corrosion on the bracket where they attach to the
axle. Managed to source some brake drums to replace my worn one. I also
got a set of brake shoes and the springs and clips thrown in together with
the securing screws which were missing on my car. I need to remove the
rear axle so that I can assess the amount of wear in the diff assembly and
whether the worn trailing arm mounts are repairable or not. I also need to
sort out a leak from the diff cover plate. This axle seems in a fairly bad
way and I might be better trying to source a second hand replacement in
away with the caravan for a fortnight so not much progress made. Made some
enquiries about a replacement axle. I have found 2. The first is in
Doncaster where I live but is off an automatic, the second is a LSD axle
from a manual car but is in Kent about 300 miles away! I have also posted
a question on the Yahoo group regarding sourcing new trailing arm mounting
brackets but have not received a reply yet. Used the angle grinder to
remove some of the tow bar mounting bolts. Still a few more to go before I
can remove it yet.
Received a couple of replies about the mounting brackets and they don't
seem to be available. Decided to buy a second hand replacement. The lure
of the Limited Slip Diff got to me and thanks to a very nice man called
Steve in Kent I now have one (See Pictures). Its in much better condition
than my own. Got it back home yesterday and managed to strip all of the
old cut off trailing arms and twisted brake pipe with no problems. All of
the nuts and bolts came undone with WD40 and not much effort - says a lot
for the condition. It came with a pair of steel wheels fitted but no
tyres though I don't know if they are off a Scimitar. Its weeping oil from
the propshaft flange though I will have to look into what is causing that
though the axle breather was blocked - it's not now!
After posting a question on the Yahoo Scimitar site I have decided to
leave the axle oil seals alone and see what they are like when its
refitted. I have continued to strip the axle down removing the wheels,
hubs and brake components. The wheel cylinders seem in good condition so
hopefully I will be able to reuse them. The biggest problem has been the
spring/shock mounting bolts. They had been cut of by the previous owner
and were stuck solid. I have been applying heat over a 3 day period with
my gas blowlamp and eventually after mistreating them with my biggest
hammer they have come free. The surprising thing is that they are not
rusty at all, just very very tight! I have started degreasing and cleaning
the outside of the axle in preparation for painting with the usual black
Finished cleaning down the axle today. The diff cover plate is cast
aluminium and this came up nice and shiny. Gave the axle 2 coats of
Hammerite. Removed and cleaned the brake adjusters and wheel cylinders -
they seem in good order with no sign of any leaks. Re fitted them with new
nuts and washers. The break shoe retaining springs and clips were cleaned
and treated to some 3 in 1 to protect them from rust. Just need to fit
some new break pipe and the brake shoes. I need to clean and paint the
brake drums before refitting.
Removed the other rear wheel and brake components. Finished removing the
old tow bar from the car with the help of my trusty angle grinder. This
was so badly corroded that I could bend it in half with my hands!! Removed
the trailing arms and started to remove the chassis links that run under
the axle, again using the angle grinder. Removed both of the back boxes on
the exhausts. It looks like there is some corrosion in the rear of the
chassis but I will tell better when I have removed the petrol tank. I have
managed to source a second hand stainless tank for a very reasonable price
from a man in Blackpool together with some door and rear hatch seals, a
rear wiper arm, front indicator lenses, and the spare wheel support plate.
Went to the festival of transport in Darley Dale on Sunday(14/09/03) and
got talking to the owner of the only Scimitar at the show. A nice white
SE5a in good condition. He is looking to change his Dunlop alloys for some
Wolfrace ones so I might be able to source replacements for my painted
wheels, watch this space.
Eventually managed to remove the old axle. This was achieved by completely
removing the exhaust on the drivers side and then with the axle on a
trolley jack, dragging it sideways to clear the exhaust on the passenger
side. The prop shaft flange bolts came undone quite easily in fact one of
them was loose. I think that the car has had some work done on the diff in
the past as there is lots of gasket compound around the cover plate bolts.
I have also managed to remove the old petrol tank though I had to cut
through the retaining straps with the grinder first. Surprisingly the rear strap retaining bolts came undone quite easily. Poking around under
the car with a screwdriver revealed no major problems with the chassis!
There is a little bit of rot in the diagonal supports but this is confined
to a section only a couple of inches long. I hope to be able to patch this
in situ. There is more corrosion on the ends of the rear bumper mounting
plate though and I can see this repair being a little tricky!
- 29 September 2003
Ordered new parts for the rear suspension from
Queensbury Road Garage. Nigel there is very helpful.
I have ordered:
- New Springs
- Avo adjustable shocks (Fixed spring
- All new nuts and bolts
- A full set of poly bushes including
trailing arms and watts linkage centre mount
- Stainless steel tank straps and
- They will arrive tomorrow (30/09/03)
19 October 2003
Cleaned down and hammerited the watts linkage
and the centre bearing. Had to weld up a hole in one of the arms as I nicked
it with the grinder when removing a stubborn mounting bolt.
04 November 2003
Assembled the watts linkage with new nuts &
bolts and plenty of copper grease. I have been unable to remove the
metalistic bushes from the trailing arms so they are going to a local
engineering company for them to do it for me. This is the first part of the
restoration that I have been unable to do myself. I will paint them and fit
the poly bushes when I get them back.
16 November 2003
Got the trailing arms back and they have made an excellent job of them. Not
only have they removed the stubborn bushes but they have cleaned them up as
well. I have given them a generous coat of hammerite and will fit the poly
bushes some time this week.
- Fitted the poly bushes and the
stainless steel inserts using my usual 'bolt and a load of washers'
method. They went in a treat and the results are very pleasing to the
eye (see the picture). Next up is the fitting of springs to shocks.
- Assembled the springs and shocks
together using my friend Gareth's spring compressors. The amount of
compression required to fit the rear springs to the shocks is roughly
half that required for the front springs.
- 24 November 2003
- Brought new unions for the rear brakes
and replaced all of the brake pipes on the rear axle. Fitted the new
flexible pipe to the axle mount.
7 December 2003
- With a great deal of heaving and
tugging managed to position the new axle in place under the car. Jacked
up one side and fitted the chassis bridging plates with new nuts bolts
and washers (finger tight at this stage) and plenty of copper grease.
Did the same to the other side. Fitted the trailing arms and
spring/shock assembly to the drivers side of the car. Loosely fitted all
of the nuts bolts and washers again with plenty of copper grease.
Compare this view to the one at the top of the page to gauge how much
better this now looks.
- 13 December 2003
- Connected the hydraulic brake pipe and
the handbrake cable. Fitted the suspension arms and the spring/shock
assembly on the passenger side. Drained the diff and refilled it with a
multigrade 80/90 hypoid gear oil. Managed to fit the watts linkage arms
to the chassis and the centre bearing to the diff. Bolted the prop shaft
to the axle. Tightened up all of the bolts to the correct torque
15 December 2003
- Finished tightening the watts linkage
bolts and fitted the handbrake cable clevis pins with new split pins.
Adjusted the slack out of the cable and tightened the brake adjusters to
the point where a bit of drag is felt on the drums. Smeared plenty of
copper grease on the exposed sections of handbrake cable.
- 20 December 2003
- Brought a Gunsons Eezibleed and the
correct cap for my master cylinder to do the brakes. Had a little
difficulty getting a good seal on the master cylinder but succeeded by
using my oil filter wrench to tighten it up. Bled the air out of the
rear brakes but the pedal is still no good. I think I need to do the
front brakes again as the master cylinder drained when I removed the
rear flexible pipe with the rear axle. I will have to do this when the
car is back on its wheels as I cant get to the front wheels at the
- 21 December 2003
- Re fitted the exhaust on the drivers
side with new u-bolts. I need to make new hanging brackets for the rear
strap type mountings. I have some 3/16" aluminium which will do nicely.
12 January 2004
- Managed to obtain some stainless steel
and made new exhaust hangers for the rear boxes from that instead of the
aluminium. Bolted them in place with new u-bolts. Refitted the rear
wheels to the car.
- 14 January 2004
- Fixed the new brake pipes to the rear
axle with some heavy duty tie wraps.
- 16 February 2004
- Got out the Eezibleed again and did
all of the brakes this time. Seemed to get a reasonable pedal but I will
know better the next time I take the car out of the garage. The last
time was quite dodgy as I had to pump the pedal to get the car to stop
at all. At least the handbrake was OK.
- 01 August 2004
- It seems the replacement rear axle I
fitted, although being in good external condition, has a few internal
faults. Since the car has been back on the road it has a groaning
noise from the rear drivers side when doing over about 10 miles per
hour. The noise is louder when cornering to the right and quieter when
cornering to the left. I think this is a worn rear wheel bearing
and will need to be replaced. I have tried lots of new grease in the
bearing and although it is a little better the noise is still there.
Unfortunately I understand that they are 'a swine' to remove so I will
wait till the car is off the road for the winter and have a go at
replacing it then.
- I decided to sort out the axle bearing so I went off
to machine mart and invested in a slide hammer. I had previously got a
full set of bearings and seals for the axle from Graham Walkers.
Unfortunately when I came to use the hammer to remove the half shaft
assembly the pulling bracket would not fit due to the large securing
nut. I got round this by welding some bolts to a pair of old wheel
nuts and then using these to bolt to the slide hammer. I firstly
removed the road wheel and brake drum (I had to slacken the brake
adjuster to do this) and the handbrake cable. I removed the brake
pipes from the wheel cylinder and removed this from the back plate
together with the brake shoes.
After undoing the 4 nuts and bolts that secure the back plate assembly
to the axle (which were not very tight!) I was then able to use the
adapted slide hammer to remove the half shaft assembly. With a few
good blows from the hammer the shaft came loose pulling the old
bearing and race with it.
then tried to remove the hub from the half shaft. I undid the nut and
attached my hydraulic puller. Despite my best efforts including much
use of the hammer and my blowlamp the hub would not budge.
- 29 December 2004
- Clearly I was not going to be able to remove this hub
myself so after a quick hunt through the yellow pages I called 'Arnett's'
a local engineering company to see if they could help. They said that
they had a press and it would be no problem. I took the assembly down
straight away with the new bearing as well so that they could fit this
for me when they had removed the old one.
- 30 December 2004
- I returned to Arnett's to pick up the half shaft and
removed hub and was greeted by the manager. Apparently there was a
story to be told. They had put the shaft in their press and as is
normal practice they had removed the castellated nut and refitted it
the other way round to minimise thread distortion. The usual pressure
required to remove the hub is around 15 tons but there was a loud bang
at 20 tons and they thought that it had come free. However the nut had
in fact split in two and it eventually took 32 tons of pressure to
remove it! This had mildly distorted the threads on the end of the
half shaft but they had run the correct size die over them and then
fitted the new bearing.
- I removed the old inner oil seal from the axle tube
again using the slide hammer and supplied special attachment. I then
cleaned it all up removing the grease nipple and all of the old
grease. I also removed quite a bit of rust from within the tube itself
using a long screwdriver and lots of old cloth. I then fitted the new
seals using the old ones to drift them in. I pushed the half shaft
back into the axle tube taking care not to damage the seal and it
engaged with the splines in the diff very easily. I then fitted the
outer bearing race in the axle tube using the thick steel spacer plate
as a drift. This must not be driven all of the way in as there must be
some play across the axle. I then refitted the metal shims, spacer
plate, brake back plate, paper gasket and outer seal retainer with new
nuts and bolts. Tightening these up pushed the bearing to its final
position and I was able to feel a small amount of play when the hub
was refitted. I was able to retrieve a nut from my old axle to replace
the one that split and this was fitted with a new split pin. It was
then just a matter of refitting the brakes, drum and road wheel.